Corvette Front 6-Piston Big Brakes for factory Z51 Wheels - AP Racing : C7 Z51

Option Selected: Kit with-out Brake Pads
SKU: 241001
Manufacturer Part Number: 13.01.10015-BUN
Availability: Usually Ships In 3-5 Days
If you owned and tracked a C5 or C6, you probably view the front OEM brake system as a weakness of the car. They were more than adequate for street use, but didn't really live up to the performance potential of the platform overall, particularly on the Z06 or after the car was modified. While that isn't an uncommon situation with factory brakes, there simply wasn't much 'headroom' built into the system. The brakes on the C7 Stingray are improved compared to the older cars, but still leave a lot to be desired for heavy track use!

Direct bolt-on for factory Z51 19" wheels.
NASCAR/ALMS Racing Series Technology for the street!
(2)AP Racing front calipers with mounting brackets and hardware.
(2)AP Racing J-hook slot 2-piece rotors with Aluminum hat - 355x32mm / 72 vane.
(2)AP Racing front stainless steel brake lines.
Easy pad replacement with-out having to remove calipers.
Lighter than stock calipers.
Many brake pad options, to choose from.
Brake Pads and Brake Fluid sold separately.

The first obvious weakness when assessing the OEM Stingray calipers is the finish. They come from Bowling Green painted in a variety of colors for corrosion resistance and appearance. Unfortunately, for all of the compliments pretty painted calipers can generate, there is an associated price if you drive the car in a track environment. That price is the chipping, flaking, fading, color shift, and general decimation of the finish in a fairly short period of time. While this is typically worn as a badge of honor among our more hardcore customers, let’s face it…they still look terrible. More importantly though, all of those bits of paint end up in places they’re not supposed to, which I’ll get to in a minute. Below is a picture of a factory Lancer Evolution caliper that was used heavily on the track. These calipers are very similar to those that come on the front of the Stingray. Believe it or not, this caliper used to be red!

Why does caliper paint peel or crack? Heat. Paint and powder coat cannot adequately handle the temperatures that calipers hit when run on a track. Powder coat also has some notorious issues with shrinkage. The powder coat layer expands and grows when the caliper is heated. When it cools however, the powder coat doesn’t necessarily shrink in step with the caliper body itself. What’s left is a loose shell of finish hanging limply on the caliper body. That shell then cracks and falls to pieces.

Paint can also have similar issues depending on how it is applied. If you were to line up a few aftermarket calipers from the same manufacturer, you would likely see that the painted finish on each of those calipers is slightly different. Some have a thicker coat, some thinner, slightly different shades of red, etc. Painting is to some extent an art form, and must be performed in a tightly controlled environment. If it isn’t, you’re always going to see variation. A thick coat makes the part look soft around the edges, and is prone to cracking off in the same manner as the powder coat described above, leaving the underlying finish exposed. A part without enough paint will look uneven, and will not protect the underlying aluminum particularly well either.

In addition to problems with cracking, flaking, and uneven application, paint and powder coat also experience extreme color shift when heated. Red becomes maroon or black, gold becomes brown, and black just gets uglier.

Now let’s take a look at some real racing calipers.

The caliper we are using in our front Competition Big Brake Kit for the Stingray is a special version of the AP Racing CP5060, with a unique specification just for Essex. This caliper was designed to be ultra-lightweight, stiff, and durable under all track conditions. The finish we chose is a hard anodizing. Hard anodizing is the business under track conditions. The Corvette specific version of this caliper is the CP5060-28/29S4L. Downloadable Installation Drawing

When raw aluminum reacts with the oxygen in the air, a hard surface film develops on aluminum which prevents further degradation. The process is called oxidation, and you can think of it like rust. The anodizing process leverages this natural phenomenon, and takes it a step further to produce an extremely hard protective layer of aluminum oxide on the aluminum. It does so by running an electrical current through an acid bath, and dying it to the desired color. If you want to know more, Google it.

The result is a finish that is far more appropriate for racetrack use. Anodizing creates a uniform surface that is much more abrasion resistant than paint or powder coat. That means if you ding an anodized caliper with a box wrench when bleeding it, a big chunk of the finish isn’t going to chip off into your hand. While anodized calipers will still exhibit color shift, it will take a lot more heat to get them to change, and they won’t change as dramatically. They will go from semi-ugly grey, to a semi-ugly grey-brown. In short, they’ll look like the race calipers they are. More importantly though, you aren’t going to have bits of anodizing sticking to the sides of your pistons.

In keeping with AP's storied racing heritage, we decided to use a machined AP Racing logo, just like the ones on the calipers we sell to professional race teams. Please keep in mind however, that an anodized finish is not designed to be driven through road salt.

Okay, so we’ve established that paint and powder coat are not ideal choices for calipers that will be thrashed at several hundred degrees on the track. While the finish is the most blatant feature that people key in on, it’s actually not nearly as important as some of the other features in the caliper that allow it to operate efficiently at track temperatures.


The OEM Stingray calipers feature a standard aluminum piston design. There are people out there who will tell you that aluminum pistons are great for track calipers. They will tell you that the expansion rates of the pistons and caliper body need to be the same when heated. This argument is completely invalid and unproven. Those same people tend to get upset when you point out the fact that every serious race caliper, from every serious race caliper manufacturer on the planet uses either stainless or titanium pistons, period. There is a reason for this: they work better!

Stainless steel pistons are far superior to aluminum pistons in creating a thermal barrier. They are much better at keeping heat out of your brake fluid and preventing a soft pedal from fluid fade on the track. This has been proven over and over again at all levels of motorsport. While most OEM and aftermarket calipers use a pressed aluminum piston, the CP5060 uses an expensive machined stainless steel piston.

To add stiffness to the pistons, AP designed the back of the piston with a domed back. At first glance this seems like a trivial design element. It is not. When domed back pistons were introduced in professional racing, driver feedback was immediate and resoundingly positive. The domed back adds considerable stiffness that can be felt through the pedal, and they have now become the standard vs. which all designs are judged.

For even greater heat resistance, we've also added ventilation/castellation to the pistons. The air gaps around the piston edge allow for even more cooling air circulation around the pistons. All of these features slow and repel the influx of heat into the brake fluid, preventing brake fluid boiling and fade.

Not only are the domed back pistons ventilated stainless steel, they are fitted with anti-knockback springs. Springs in pistons you ask? Yes, springs. If you’ve ever gone through a series of S turns and then had your pedal drop when going into the following brake zone, you have experienced knockback. To say it is disconcerting is an understatement. You’ll often see pro drivers ‘pre-tap’ their brakes lightly when approaching a brake zone. They are fighting knockback.

Knockback is a phenomenon that is common with fixed calipers. Knockback occurs when your car’s wheel, hub, and bearings deflect during cornering, allowing your brake disc to move out of sync with your caliper and brake pads. The caliper is less prone to movement because it is attached to the more rigid upright. As the brake disc deflects, it actually pushes the pads away from each other, forcing the caliper pistons back into their bores. The piston seals don’t have enough tension in them to return the pistons to their original location. That means there is slack in the system that needs to be taken up. When you press the brake pedal, it will continue to drop until that slack is taken up.

Anti-knockback springs help alleviate this situation by putting some tension on the back side of the pistons. When the disc deflects and pushes the pistons, the springs push the pistons back into their proper location, reducing slack in the system. That means less pedal drop and far fewer pucker-factor moments when going into heavy brake zones.

The downside to springs is that they create slightly more drag by continually exerting force on pistons towards the disc. AP Racing addressed this issue by equipping the CP5060 with special seals that help prevent brake drag.

The OEM C7 calipers are designed for year round road use and as such come with a bellows style external dust boot. “So?” You ask. Well, we’ve seen them burn up in a single 20 minute session, and all they do is make a big mess.

Additionally, the OEM caliper seals aren’t designed to handle repeated trips to several hundred degrees without becoming brittle and leaking, etc. On the other hand, the CP5060 caliper has the exact same AP Racing high temperature seals used in NASCAR Sprint Cup, ALMS, DTM, etc. They are designed to operate at extreme temperatures without leaking, and require less frequent replacement and servicing. You won’t see a ragged mess here.

One of the biggest downsides to the calipers on the Stingray is that they have square piston bores. In other words, all pistons in the caliper are the same size. When brakes are applied, the leading edge of the brake pad is pulled into the disc by its friction against the disc face. At the same time, the trailing edge of the pad lifts away from the disc surface. Pad material from the front edge of the pad is scraped off and travels to the back of the pad, and the back edge of the pad rides on top of that layer of material. To combat this phenomena, aftermarket and racing brake calipers employ a smaller leading piston and a larger trailing piston (differential bores) to 'even out' the forces on the back of the brake pad. Unfortunately, this strategy was not applied to the C7, and each front caliper has four pistons of the exact same size.

As you can see in the pic below, the AP Racing CP5060 has differential piston bores, with two pistons in each of three sizes to combat the phenomena described above. The result is less pad tapering.

After the countless times you’ve changed your brake pads before track events, you’re probably never too excited when it comes time to do so. The factory calipers use a retention pin design, that slides in and out. Unfortunately, it's always a hassle to pop out the pin, and it's even tougher to do so without using a hammer and punch. Changing pads will be less of a chore with the CP5060. No more fiddling with a hammer, punch, and pliers, like you need for the OEM calipers. AP’s bridge bolts pop out easily with a 5mm hex wrench and a 7mm socket. It will take you longer to pull off the wheel than it will to change pads. Less time futzing around in the paddock, and more time driving= fun.


The piston sizes for our system were specifically chosen for the C7 Corvette, and our front system can be bolted to an otherwise stock brake system with no ill-effects, negative impact on ABS, etc. The vehicles stock master cylinder can remain, as can the OEM rear brake system.

Our brake system follows a simple philosophy: Anything larger than necessary to get the job done is simply dead weight to drag around. The front OEM Stingray calipers are extremely heavy. Each front four piston caliper weighs 9.8lbs., roughly three pounds heavier than the six piston AP Racing CP5060! I posted the above pic again to reiterate the mass difference between calipers.

CP5060 weight vs. C7 OEM front four piston:
Endurance CP5060 six piston caliper, bracket, and pads= 10 lbs.
OEM C7 front caliper and pads= 12.8 lbs.

You'll be saving nearly 3 lbs. unsprung weight per corner on the calipers, brackets, pads, and associate hardware.

One of the major problems with many of the other brake packages currently on the market is wheel fitment. You’re offered gigantic discs and 12 piston calipers, with a pat on the back and a, “Good luck finding wheels to clear those things (insert sinister chuckle here).” The reality is that many casual racers want to use their OEM size wheels on the track, or the smallest, lightest wheel they can find. Not only is saving unsprung weight critical, R compound tires are much more plentiful and cheaper for smaller wheels. If the components are designed properly with heavy use in mind, you don’t need to cram boat anchors under your wheels. Our brake system easily clears the front OEM C7 Z51 wheels without a spacer.

Finally, if you’re worried about a loss of stiffness due to mass reduction, don’t. Some manufacturers use a heavier six piston caliper, but that's because the caliper wasn't designed or optimized for racing. In those cases, the same caliper may have been designed for use on much heavier road cars, and even trucks! AP’s CP5060 is extremely stiff, and designed from scratch with only the racetrack in mind.

The front calipers in particular are extremely heavy. Each front caliper weighs 9.8lbs. They also have dust boots, which are great for the street, but turn into a burnt mess when tracked hard. The painted finish will be fine on the street, but again, when these calipers are hit hard on track, expect to see some lovely shades of brown and grey, flaking paint, etc. One of the biggest downsides to the calipers on our Z51 is that they have square piston bores. When brakes are applied, the leading edge of the brake pad is pulled into the disc by its friction against the disc face. At the same time, the trailing edge of the pad lifts away from the disc surface. Pad material from the front edge of the pad is scraped off and travels to the back of the pad, and the back edge of the pad rides on top of that layer of material. To combat this phenomena, aftermarket and racing brake calipers employ a smaller leading piston and a larger trailing piston to 'even out' the forces on the back of the brake pad. Unfortunately, this strategy was not applied to the C7, and each front caliper has four pistons of the exact same size. It's likely that we will see some pad taper issues. The rear caliper will likely be more than adequate on these cars. At roughly 5 lbs. each, they aren't terribly heavy. The rear pad shape is a new one, and it has a decent surface area and volume that I expect will be adequate.

To give an idea of caliper size, here are the front Z51 four piston calipers next to AP Racing's six piston CP5060. The OEM caliper weighs 9.8 lbs., vs. 6.5 lbs...over 3 lbs. difference per caliper!

The pad shape our CP5060 caliper uses was created by AP Racing many years ago, and is used by a wide range of racing calipers today. It’s available in just about every popular racing compound on the market. That means you’ll never end up in a pinch without pads. The available pad compounds that Essex sells for the CP5060 caliper can be found below. Please keep in mind that there are many other compounds available on the market from other manufacturers. The list below is only what Essex sells. When purchasing this brake system, you have the option of buying one set of any of the pads in that link at 50% off of the retail price. Underneath each manufacturer below, the pad compounds are listed from most aggressive to least aggressive.

Performance Ceramic

Note on using brake pads different from those listed above

Again, please keep in mind that the above is not an exhaustive list, and that there are many other pad compounds available in this shape from other manufacturers. Please note however, that the pad shape we use in our caliper is available in a variety of radial depths (heights), and that Essex recommends the 54mm radial depth version. Another common radial depth in this pad shape is 51mm. The 51mm depth pads will fit into our caliper, but you will be leaving an unswept 'ring' around the disc near the attachment points to the hat (the pad will not hang as low in the caliper). Leaving a portion of the disc face unswept can create a temperature differential across the face of the disc, and doing so could lead to premature disc cracking.

Dimensions= 152.1 x 54 x 18 mm

Caliper disassemblyCaliper cleaning

Base Model Discs
The base model has front discs sized 320x30mm, and there is absolutely nothing remarkable about them. They're just like the discs on the front of the average minivan. They are a one-piece, cast iron, pillar vane design, and they weigh in at 20 lbs. each. They aren't optimized for high airflow, and won't do a very good job at removing heat from the disc. The inlet to the air gap is tiny, and as you can see in the pics below, the air gap is partially obscured by the disc hat, limiting airflow. There are no drill holes or slots on the disc face of the base model. Slotted would be better for improved pad bite, but a plain face is far better for crack resistance vs. drilled. The front discs on the base model are inadequate for anything other than street or autoX use, and are woefully undersized for heavy track use given the potential of the car. In fact, when the C5 Corvette was introduced in 1997 with 340hp, the front discs were 325x32mm. Now we have a car that has an extra 100+ hp, wider tires, superior aero, and a vastly different performance envelope...yet the C7 discs are 5mm smaller in diameter, and 2mm thinner!

The Z51 discs are a pillar vane (non-directional) dual-cast design, which essentially means that a separate hat and iron disc ring are formed as two separate pieces, and then cast together. The goal with these discs is to provide some of the benefits of a two-piece floating/racing disc, while still being able to resist the road salt/corrosion issues that aluminum disc hats can have. Other performance cars have used similar designs over the years, with the BMW M3 being the most common one that comes to mind. The amount of float in these discs will be more limited than a true racing design, and as you can see in the pics, the 'arms' used to attach the hat to the disc partially obscure airflow into some of the vanes. The dual-cast design also weighs more than then typical two-piece aftermarket discs we're used to seeing, which I'll address in more detail below.

C7 Z51 air gap obscured

GM made the right choice by going with slotted discs instead of drilled. They will be less prone to cracking than a drilled disc. That said, the slot pattern is not optimized. Additionally, the disc vanes are non-directional. As with the C6 Z06, the same exact disc is used on both sides of the car, leaving considerable performance on the table.

The 72 vane, heavy duty, AP Racing J Hook design, 355x32mm discs in our system are the epitome of endurance racing components. They will hold up extremely well to any abuse you plan to throw at them. These discs have been proven time and again in professional racing, winning many races and even championships (ALMS, Rolex, Grand Am, etc.). Most notably, the Action Express Corvette Daytona Prototypes won the championship on these discs in 2012 (and continue to run them).


As is the case with most metal, iron brake discs grow substantially when heated. As it is heated, a disc expands radially, increasing in diameter and circumference. One-piece disc designs run into problems when this occurs. Look at the picture below and imagine the disc is being heated on the track. As the disc expands, the outer edges of the disc are pulling away from the center of the disc, but there are no built-in provisions to allow for that expansion. The edges of the disc therefore pull, lift, and distort, which is called coning. Now imagine that disc vertical on the car, running in your caliper. Coning directly impacts the brake pads’ contact with the disc, leading to uneven wear and tapering, and even a long brake pedal.

Two-piece discs on the other hand, compensate for the expansion of the disc as it heats. This is accomplished by building ‘float’ into either the disc itself, or the disc hat/bell. In our case, the float is in the disc. If you look closely at the picture below, you can see that the mounting holes for the hat attachment bobbins are not round. They are an oblong shape. These channels allow the hat mounting hardware to slide as the disc is heated and expands, allowing the disc to run true in the caliper without distortion. That means less distortion, stress cracks, and pad taper.


If you look closely at the mounting hardware we use in our Competition Kits, you’ll notice a few details that are often overlooked in lesser products. These components are specially made for their intended purpose. These are not cheap bolts found at your local big box store. They are custom made in the USA for Essex and AP Racing, and they are the exact same components we use on professional racing products.

As discussed above with regards to the piston springs, knockback can be a serious issue when tracking a car. In order to help control the lateral motion of the disc, which pushes the pistons back into the caliper, we use an anti-knockback spring clip on every other disc attachment point (on a ten bolt disc there are five spring clips, while on a twelve bolt disc there are six). These spring clips help keep the disc hat and iron ring in alignment, while still allowing the disc to expand and float radially. As an added bonus, they prevent the hat and iron disc from rattling and making noise.

As the diameter of the disc grows, so does the distance between mounting points (assuming a constant radial depth). After countless hours of testing and experience in professional racing, we've settled on a 12 bolt mounting pattern for our larger diameter, 355mm racing discs. The extra mounting points provide additional strength and stiffness, and help resist deflection. The majority of our competitors use a 10 bolt pattern on their 355mm setups, which is not as stout, and not commonly used at the highest levels of racing on large diameter discs.

Floating two-piece discs with an aluminum hat also have the added benefit of reducing heat conduction to the hubs and bearings, decreasing wear and tear on these costly components (which is not the case with the Z51 discs, which have an iron hat). The disc hats themselves are manufactured from 2024-T351 heat-treated billet aluminum, with an anodized coating. This material was specifically chosen for its strength at high temperatures, as it will be in direct contact with the searing hot iron discs. The hats feature scallops on the underside, to allow for heat evacuation along the outer disc face once installed. The aluminum material is also considerably lighter than iron.


The internal vane design on AP’s CP5773 is quite a bit different vs. OEM Stingray discs, as well as other brands of aftermarket discs. After extensive CFD and thermal stress analysis, AP designed the Heavy Duty J Hook with 72 curved vanes to increase airspeed and heat transfer, while reducing deflection and remaining reasonably lightweight. The increased directional vane count on the J Hook Heavy Duty Disc amplifies air speed through the disc, reduces air recirculation between vents, and also increases convective heat transfer and heat distribution. In other words, both air and heat move more quickly and evenly through the disc, creating increased stability under the extreme loads of racetrack use. Compared to an OEM-style disc or competitor's 48 vane discs, the 72 vane CP5773 is less prone to coning, distortion, and cracking, while providing less brake fade, reduced judder, and a longer service life.

When you cut a slot or drill a hole in a disc you impact heat transfer. The area around the slot or hole acts as a cool spot when the disc heats up, which is not ideal. Ideally, heat is distributed uniformly around the disc so it can be hit with the cooling air that is pumping through the disc, radiate outwards away from the disc, etc. Cool spots create stress risers and increase the likelihood of the disc cracking. They also cause the face of the disc to distort unevenly, leading to uneven pad deposits, vibration, and judder.

The OEM discs avoid this problem by simply leaving the face blank. While the risk for NVH goes down, so does the pad bite and feel of the disc through the brake pedal. Competitive aftermarket offerings typically have straight slots, which tend to leave cool spots across the disc face between the slots.

During exhaustive R&D testing, AP's J Hook design was found to create a constant pathway of evenly distorted material on the face of the disc. The hooks are spaced out as evenly as possible both around the circumference of the disc, as well as from the inside edge (where the hat attaches) to outer edge, with a slight overlap to promote even heat distribution/distortion. In addition to reducing cracking, the even heating of the disc also helps provide an even transfer layer of pad material on the disc when you bed them in.

Additionally, the J Hook slot pattern produces a greater number of leading edges for the pads to bite into vs. a traditional curved slot pattern, and particularly a plain-faced disc. While this may lead to slightly more whirring or scraping noises from the discs when applying the brakes, the benefits of more even heat distribution, less propensity to crack, cleaner pad material transfer during bed-in, and more bite far outweigh the slight increase in NVH for the serious enthusiast.

AP Racing has been designing brake components for more than 50 years. They've had their components on cars that have won more than 600 grand prix's (Formula 1). On any given race weekend, AP J Hook discs can be found on 75% or more of the NASCAR Sprint Cup grid. AP has learned from these experiences, and have developed a proprietary iron alloy with extreme durability, designed specifically for what you intend to do with it (flog the hell out of it).

The primary objectives with OEM discs are simple: they must be cheap and easy to produce. The design objectives for these two products are vastly different.

Disc weight vs. Stock
I'm sure this is no surprise to anyone, but we are going to save you a ton of unsprung weight vs. the OEM components. These pics tell the story. Please keep in mind that these weights are approximates...discs from different manufacturers, etc. will vary slightly. The discs we are comparing against are popular discs in the market, and representative of the average weight savings:

I'm sure this is no surprise to anyone, but we are going to save you a considerable amount of unsprung weight vs. the OEM components.

The Z51 discs are definitely superior to the base model fronts. The separate hat keeps weight down a bit, and the dual-cast design will give them a little bit of float. However, these discs are still several pounds heavier than a billet aluminum hat on a racing disc. The front Z51discs weigh 20.2 lbs., which is essentially the same as the dimensionally smaller base model front discs. For reference on that weight, the larger 355x32mm, 72mm, two-piece AP Racing discs we use in our big brake kits weigh about 17 and a half pounds. There is definitely an opportunity to drop a few pounds per corner on the disc alone.

Base C7 OEM disc= 20 lbs.
C7 Z51 OEM disc= 20.2 lbs.
CP5773 355x32mm 72 vane Endurance J Hook= 17.6 lbs.
Weight savings on AP Racing disc vs. either OEM disc= over 2 lbs.

Despite being larger in both diameter and thickness, having 72 vanes for increased cooling capacity, and factoring in attachment hardware, our discs are still over 2 lbs. lighter than the OEM units!

If your brake discs aren’t being properly prepared for abuse prior to flogging them on track, you’re exposing yourself to potential judder, vibration, and cracking issues. We all know that prepping your pads and discs at the track can be difficult. Doing so wastes time during the first session of the day, and it's a hassle and potentially dangerous for other drivers as you go through the procedure. Track time is expensive and tough to come by. The more time you spend behind the wheel performing an elaborate bed-in procedure, the less time you’ll spend doing hot laps. Performing the procedure on-track also limits its repeatability. You can't control what's going on around you with track conditions, other drivers, etc., and many track configurations don't really lend themselves to the constant start/stop/start required to do the job properly.

Essex is now offering a solution via our professional burnishing service. Previously reserved for our professional racing customers, we are now offering our retail customers the option of having the discs in select Competition Brake Kits pre-burnished at our factory. We burnish thousands of discs for the top racing teams each year. After countless hours of experimentation, and extensive feedback from the top drivers and teams, we can consistently squeeze the most reliable performance out of AP Racing's discs. The procedure is incredibly repeatable, as it is performed on a computer-controlled machine by experienced technicians.

Initially, we will only be burnishing our C6 Endurance Brake Kit discs with the Ferodo DS1.11 pad compound, but will likely expand the program to other compounds in the future. If you decide to select this option, the discs in your brake kit will arrive covered in a beautiful transfer layer of DS1.11, ready to drop on the car for instant abuse. The cost of our burnishing service is $50 per disc ($100 per brake kit).

Please note that the pads you receive will not be pre-burnished. In other words, the pads and discs do not have to be a matched set burnished together to reap the benefits the procedure has on the discs. In other words, we will burnish the discs in the pad compound you choose, they just won't be burnished with the exact set of pads that will arrive with your kit.

Let's face it, no matter how good a brake disc is, it's still a consumable item. They're no different than brake pads or gasoline. You beat them up until they crack to pieces, then you throw them away. If replacement iron is too expensive, you're always driving in fear, waiting to shell out big bucks for a new set. Despite having the most expansive set of features on the market, the CP5773 355x32mm Heavy Duty J Hook retails for a budget-friendly $359 each.

Going to the track is expensive! Event entrance fees, hotels, fuel, and tires all add up. While you obviously want the best product available, you can't afford to pay a small fortune for something you're just going to destroy. You can buy a set of $300 OEM discs for every event, have relentless heat issues, and find yourself constantly swapping them out. When you do the math, the long-term value of the AP J Hook's is tough to beat. They weigh less, flow considerably more air, keep pads and calipers cooler, are less prone to cracking, and will last far longer. You'll enjoy all those benefits without breaking the bank, and you'll spend more time driving and less time wrenching.

Elite level teams choose AP Racing discs because they know the work has been done to provide the best available product at any price level. The AP Heavy Duty J Hook is a direct derivative of AP's vast racing experience. You can buy with confidence knowing that you're getting the best product available at any price point. A note of caution however: the J Hook design is often imitated, and there are a number of lesser quality imitations on market. Before purchasing, make sure you are getting an authentic AP Racing J Hook!

Caliper brackets for our kit are machined from heat-treated 6061 T6 billet aluminum, and hard anodized, ensuring strength and durability. All included hardware is of aircraft quality, and identical to what we use in professional racing. One of the nice features of our brackets is their cutaway design, which allows for the snug fitment of brake duct kits.

Essex recommends running our system (or any system) with a quality brake duct system. Please note, DO NOT BOLT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE CALIPER BRACKET AND THE SUSPENSION UPRIGHT! Any ears or tabs from a brake duct system bolted between the bracket and the upright will misalign the caliper from its intended orientation, causing potentially serious damage to the entire brake system or car. The bracket should be directly bolted to the upright as intended, with nothing sandwiched between the two.

For our Stingray BBK, Essex is including a pair of the highest quality brake lines currently available. These lines have a wide range of features not available in competitive offerings. Below are just a few. From complete details please visit the Spiegler page on our site.

While the C7 Base and Z51 brakes are more advanced vs. the C5 & C6, there is still a lot of room for improvement. Based on everything we’ve learned during development, we believe our system offers our customers the following advantages over the front OEM C7 Stingray brake systems:

Approximately 5 lbs. of unsprung weight reduction from EACH front corner, or 10+ lbs. of unsprung weight reduction from the nose of the car
Ventilated, domed back, stainless steel pistons to help keep heat of the brake fluid
Mitigation of pad knockback via 4lb. anti-knockback springs in the calipers
Caliper finish and logo that are more resistant to wear and deterioration under high heat track conditions
Stainless steel caliper hardware for a long caliper service life under frequent pad change conditions
High temperature, low drag seals that will hold up to track temps= less rebuilding and longer service life
No dust boots to burn up and make a big mess
Simple pad change with two bolts, and no fussing with pins, punch, and pliers.
Lifetime professional caliper rebuilding support by Essex (at a fee)- pull off your calipers, send them to us, we clean, inspect, and rebuild them
Championship winning, 72 vane, fully floating, AP Racing J Hook endurance racing discs with 12 attachment points to hat, that are considerably larger and thicker than the OEM units
Anti-knockback/anti-rattle disc attachment hardware
Replacement iron disc rings available at an extremely competitive price ($359 each).
Disc metallurgy specifically designed to handle the temps typically seen on track offer a long service life
Available disc burnishing service ensures that your kit arrives ready to be installed and driven hard immediately
Highest quality, Spiegler stainless steel brake line with clear sheath that reduces compliance over OEM rubber design.

Essex recommends the Ferodo DS1.11 for this brake system. DS1.11 is an outstanding race compound that has a moderately high coefficient of friction, long wear characteristics, and an incredibly flat torque curve. The DSUNO doesn't wear quite as well as the DS1.11, but provides an extremely high coefficient of friction, which many drivers prefer.

For the rear of your C7 corvette, we'd recommend either the DS1.11 or the DS2500.

DS1.11 for rear OEM C7 base and Z51 calipers (FRP3137W)

DS2500 for rear OEM C7 base and Z51 calipers (FRP3137H)

To extract the most from your brake kit, Essex Recommends using a high quality, fade resistant fluid such as AP Racing Super 600 or AP Racing PRF brake fluids.


Warning Symbol WARNING: Cancer and reproductive harm -